Re-cap of IVA Test Preparations

I never got around to it earlier, but I'd always intended to write a post about the modifications that I did for my IVA test.  I'll share them here in case any are useful inspiration for other builders about to take their IVA tests.

Exhaust clamp bolt rotated around towards the sill of the car.

5mm rubber cord super-glued to the scuttle, around the dashboard.  The dashboard had been cut a few mm undersize to accommodate the cord.

3mm rubber cord super-glued around the lens of the reverse and fog lights.

Rubber u-trim attached around the upper harness buckles.

Self-amalgamating tape wrapped around the nuts on the side mirrors.

Exhaust heat wrap fitted around the lambda sensor with stainless steel ties.

U-trim fixed around the silencer bracket with Sikaflex.  Nut covers added to ends of bolts/nuts.

U-trim fitted around the headlight bracket.  Self-amalgamating tape wrapped around the upper ball joint adjuster nut.

Rubber pipe split and wrapped around the track rod, to make it the same diameter as the rod end.  Then self-amalgamating tape wrapped around both.  More nut covers added to the bolt heads and nuts, where not in an exempt area.

Front indicator extensions - made from plumbing tube and copper pipe end caps.

A combination of bicycle inner tube and self-amalgamating tape on the bonnet spring catches.

Loops of bicycle inner tube to secure the plastic covers for the rear bonnet catches.

U-trim on front cycle wings.

Nut coves on suspension nuts/bolts.  U-trim added to all edges of the fibreglass.

Ford Sierra steering wheel fitted.  Before the test I discovered that the inside had delaminated in places from the metal ring.  The padding had also gone a bit powdery.  Both due to old age.  I used a sharp knife to cut a long slit around parts of the wheel rim.  Inside I added some black Sikaflex and wrapped it all up tight with tape.  The repair is almost invisible and the wheel now feels as strong as new.

Updating the Dash Warning Lights

There are two warning lights wired into the Webcon loom: one for the RPM warning (shift light) and another for the ECU (warns of Throttle Position Sensor error or coolant overheat).  I'd always wanted to put these on the dash where I could see them.  Only problem is both are just plain red lights, and I didn't want to stick labels on the dash.  In the end I came up with a solution: 3mm Letraset and spray enamel.

The best method seemed to be to apply the letters to the warning light and then to add one quite thick coat of enamel.  Just enough so that it did not drip.  I tried two coats on another light and the second coat melted the first and it looked a mess.  Also I found that the Letraset had to be rubbed very well onto the light or the enamel would lift the areas of Letraset not properly in contact with the warning light surface.

Here is the end result, all four key warning lights right in my field of vision, or peripheral vision if I am looking at the road.

The dash doesn't look this scratched in real life.  Its the camera flash that seems to be very unflattering.

The alternator warning light was the original from Tiger.  I didn't have this fitted originally as I was planning to use the low voltage warning on the Acewell digital dash, but I hadn't realised that the alternator will not charge the battery unless the warning light is in the circuit.

The oil pressure light was added to replace the one on the Acewell.  I was not happy with the Acewell one as it was fairly small and partially hidden behind the indicator stalk.  I wanted this important warning light right where I could see it.  Only problem was they are only available in yellow.  Any production car has them in red, and so they should be as this is a warning as opposed to a caution.  My solution was to get a blank red warning light and add the word 'OIL' myself.

Front Lighting

The IVA test requires that the front indicators are no more than 400mm from the outside edges of the car.  On the Avon this would be measured in from the rear wheel arches (being the widest part of the car).  The rear arches are 1750mm in width so the indicators need to be no less than 950mm (1750 - 800) between their outside edges.  As with most sevens the indicators needed extending on stalks.

I found a plastic waste overflow pipe at B&Q which is the perfect fit to hold the motorcycle indicator units.

To create a fixing to the nose cone of the car I used a 22mm copper pipe blanking cap with a M8 bolt.  An 8mm bolt was used as this is the same as the indicator unit bolt.  The centre of the bolt was drilled out to allow the wires to pass through.  A length of rubber sleeve was used inside the bolt to prevent chafing on the edge of the hole.

As well as using glue a couple of 3.2mm rivets were used to lock the bolt in place and prevent it spinning when tightening the nut.  Finally, prior to fitting, a quick coat of black paint was used to cover the copper and rivets.

To allow more clearance on the cycle wings I've changed from the 5 3/4"  light units to the smaller 4" Dominator motorcycle units.  Being smaller they should reduce drag (a little) and boost the top speed (a little).

The wires needed extending and protective sleeving added.  The colour scheme for the wires was very bizarre.  I had to trace each one to the bulb holders to work out what was going on.  After the bullet connectors were attached I labelled each one to prevent future confusion.

Being a motorcycle light the Dominator has a flat beam pattern, with no kick-up to the left.  This is fine for the IVA test, but to help it pass the MoT the light unit is best rotated a few degrees to give the required kick-up.  To do this a second locating cut-out was filed, to the right of the original one.  This causes the whole light unit to be rotated anti-clockwise when viewed from the front of the car.

Front indicators and headlights mounted and wire in.  I'll replace the bullet connectors with soldered connections after the IVA test.  I've ordered some proper two pin connectors from Ebay for the front indicators.  This will make it easier to detach prior to removing the nose cone.

I had some black card handy in the garage so I thought I'd use it to check the beam patterns.  Here is the dipped beam.  Hot spot in the centre and kick-up to the left.  Hopefully good enough to please Mr (or Mrs) MoT tester.

And here is the full beam.

These are small light units and are mounted quite low.  As such their beam will be masked partly by the front cycle wings.  This should not be too much of an inconvenience as they will really only be used to get home around dusk.  I don't plan to be making too many long distance trips at night.