Re-cap of IVA Test Preparations

I never got around to it earlier, but I'd always intended to write a post about the modifications that I did for my IVA test.  I'll share them here in case any are useful inspiration for other builders about to take their IVA tests.

Exhaust clamp bolt rotated around towards the sill of the car.

5mm rubber cord super-glued to the scuttle, around the dashboard.  The dashboard had been cut a few mm undersize to accommodate the cord.

3mm rubber cord super-glued around the lens of the reverse and fog lights.

Rubber u-trim attached around the upper harness buckles.

Self-amalgamating tape wrapped around the nuts on the side mirrors.

Exhaust heat wrap fitted around the lambda sensor with stainless steel ties.

U-trim fixed around the silencer bracket with Sikaflex.  Nut covers added to ends of bolts/nuts.

U-trim fitted around the headlight bracket.  Self-amalgamating tape wrapped around the upper ball joint adjuster nut.

Rubber pipe split and wrapped around the track rod, to make it the same diameter as the rod end.  Then self-amalgamating tape wrapped around both.  More nut covers added to the bolt heads and nuts, where not in an exempt area.

Front indicator extensions - made from plumbing tube and copper pipe end caps.

A combination of bicycle inner tube and self-amalgamating tape on the bonnet spring catches.

Loops of bicycle inner tube to secure the plastic covers for the rear bonnet catches.

U-trim on front cycle wings.

Nut coves on suspension nuts/bolts.  U-trim added to all edges of the fibreglass.

Ford Sierra steering wheel fitted.  Before the test I discovered that the inside had delaminated in places from the metal ring.  The padding had also gone a bit powdery.  Both due to old age.  I used a sharp knife to cut a long slit around parts of the wheel rim.  Inside I added some black Sikaflex and wrapped it all up tight with tape.  The repair is almost invisible and the wheel now feels as strong as new.

Cooling System - Mark 3

When previously installing the Tiger alloy radiator I re-used the 'puller' fan that I had bought for the Polo radiator.  This meant that the radiator could not be angled back fully all the way to the upper horizontal chassis rail.  Now that I'm able to trial fit the nose cone I can see that the top of the radiator is not low enough.  Time to replace the 'puller' type fan with a 'pusher' type.

With the radiator angled all the way back to the chassis rail the nose cone now fits properly.

The water rail was attached to the side chassis rail.  A dab of Sikaflex and a rivet at each end have made a strong mounting.

Aluminium panelling (nearly) completed

All alluminium panels have now been cut to size, drilled and attached with Sikaflex and rivets. The only exceptions are the upper sides of the upper rear quarter panels, the transmission tunnel top, transmission tunnel passenger side as well as the battery tray. These will be attached later, only after access is no longer needed, e.g. to mount the gearbox, bodywork, etc.

The aluminium was cut using standard, new (sharp) tin snips, filed where necessary and then deburred using the pen style deburring tool. Rivets were spaced at 75mm intervals, or less where the distance was divided to provide an even spacing less than 75mm. Sikaflex sealant was used relatively sparingly, making sure the drilled holes were covered, prior to rivetting.

After fitting the panels I ran a bead of Sikaflex along the joints that needed it. Masking tape was applied about 5mm each side of the joint, a thin bead of Sikaflex was run along the joint, before smoothing out with a very sticky finger and finally removing the masking tape.

Overall I am quite pleased with the finish. There are few bits where I would do it differently if I were to do it again, but isn't that's always the way.

Floor panels completed

Floor panels fixed with Sikaflex sealant and riveted into place. Chassis turned back the right way up ready to fit the remainder of the alumnium panels.