Lower Alternator Bracket Upgrade

When I fitted the Denso alternator I fabricated a new top bracket.  For the bottom bracket I reworked the original Lucas ACR bracket from Tiger.  I removed the mounting pieces and had the local welding shop add new ones for the Denso.

After fitting I did worry a little that this bracket had no lateral bracing and may be weakened by the sideways forces combined with it being 'pulled' across the front of the corner of the engine.
A week after returning from the 1,500 mile Euroblat trip I was having a general check under teh

It is not surprising that it failed as it did.  I was just lucky I did not breakdown.  Here you can see where the edge of the engine was contacting the bracket.

It it probably a bit over the top, but for a replacement I used some 5mm right angle steel and got some mounting pieces welded on.  All painted up and ready for fitment.

It is perhaps possible to lighten this further, but I didn't want to unwittingly introduce any weak points into this new bracket.  It was mounted with spacing washers slightly proud of the engine so as not to have the corner of the engine pressing against the bracket where the failure occurred on the old bracket.

Alternator Upper Bracket

Whilst on the return from a Southern Kit Cars trip to Bletchley Park, I thought I could hear a metallic rattling when the car was idling at junctions.  When it was safe to do so, I pulled up at the side of the road and took off the bonnet.  I discovered that the upper alternator bracket had failed.

Thankfully, the new bottom bracket is very robust and bolted up very tight.  This single bolt was holding the tension in the alternator belt.  Aside from worries about the alternator not charging, I was concerned that if the belt started to slip, then the water pump might not function correctly, with the engine potentially overheating.  For the rest of the return trip I kept to a steady speed on the main roads.  I made it back home, where I was able to look at the bracket failure in more detail.  It can be seen where the failure started, from the outside rusty edges and then it has spread across the middle, to completely separate.

For a replacement, I fabricated a new bracket out of a single thick piece of L-section mild steel.  It is a little overkill, but I really don't want to have any more alternator bracket issues.  Even if I'm carry just that little bit more weight than is necessary.  In the future I may trim off some more of the excess metal.

Denso Alternator

I'd been having some more issues with my Lucas alternator, so I took it apart and ordered a service kit, which included bushes, bearings, rectifier and regulator.  I started to overhaul the alternator, but during the process I decided that I was not really happy with the situation.  I wasn't convinced that I would not have further problems in the future, so I finally took the plunge and ordered a genuine Denso alternator.

The new alternator is rated at 40 amps, so should be more than sufficient for the modest electrical loads that my Avon can generate.  It weights about 2kg versus the 3kg of the Lucas, so there is a nice weight saving too.

When I removed the Lucas alternator I discovered that the lower mounting bracket had failed.  The front lug had snapped off and it was just the rear lug that was holding the alternator on.  It was lucky that I discovered this in the garage and not at the side of the road!

I took the old lower bracket to the local fabricator/welders.  They removed the old lugs and added strong new fixings for the Denso.

For the alternator tensioner I re-used the old upper bracket and connected it to the alternator with two rod ends and some 8mm threaded rod.

The main output connection is a threaded copper post.  I had a proper battery cable made up that had the correct size ring connector for the alternator on one end and the correct size at the other to connect to the starter motor connection (where the car's main loom terminates the +12v).  This arrange should be much better than the Lucas spade connections, which are prone to arcing.  The cable is more heavy duty than the original Tiger alternator output wire, so this can only help.

Front Registration Plate Brackets

To mount the front registration plate I fabricated two aluminium brackets and riveted through the bottom of the nose cone.  The plate itself is attached using 1mm double sided adhesive pads.  I might add self tapping screws if it shows signs of working loose.

The rear registration plate is just attached using the adhesive pads.

Rear Lighting

All fitted, wired up and tested.

Some of the wiring could be attached to the chassis tubes, but inside the wheel arches there is nothing to attach the wires to.  Some Grip Fill was used to glue clips to the inside of the wheel arches and then cable ties could be used.  Sprial wrap was then added to all wires to prevent chafing, particularly where the wires pass through the fibreglass.

As the fog light needs to be vertical for the IVA test I used one of Tiger's fibreglass 'wedges'.  I didn't need to use them on the rear light clusters as my light units are tapered at the back.  To mount the wedge I made up a small bracket.  I made sure the holes in the bodywork are the same spacing as on the fog light until, so in theory I can attach later without the 'wedge'.

Exhaust Fitted

Bracket made up to mount the silencer, painted with Hammerite and bolted through one of the steel chassis plates.

To fit the exhaust I used a high temperature silicon sealant (PRO SEAL RTV Silicone Instant Gasket RED 85g Hi-Temp) - it is flexible so won't crumble like exhaust paste and clog the catalyst.  Also it is supposed to be safe for use on lamda sensors.

Next to do is installation of the lamda sensor.

Coolant Expansion Tank

The standard Tiger expansion tank bracket has a flat piece of metal, sort of like a foot, which I believe originally would be bolted through the chassis rail at the front of the battery tray.  Like a number of people I wanted to mount the tank further back (uses spare space in front of the scuttle and allows more access room around the back of the engine).  The lower foot was cut off and the horizontal piece of metal was used to bolt the bracket to the battery tray.  However, this has no fore/aft strength, i.e. if somebody leaned on the expansion tank it would bend the battery tray aluminium.  To get around this I cut a couple of 'legs' from 20mm wide steel strip.

When mounting the bracket I bolted down through the bracket, then the battery tray and finally the legs (one on each side).  The end result is pretty sturdy.

Engine coolant plumbing complete.

Clutch Cable

With the Tiger floor mounted pedals the brake pipes are routed along the lower chassis rail.  Unfortunately this is where the clutch cable would normally be tethered.  There is pretty much only one routing where the clutch cable does not foul the brake pipes - that is in a vertical curve.

I fabricated two brackets and used rubber lined p-clips to hold the clutch cable in this configuration.  The clutch action seems nice and smooth and the cable stays clear of the brake pipes, oil filter and lower steering column.

This large bracket came in a multi-pack from Screwfix.  It is normally used to hold kitchen cupboards together.  After adding a 90 degree bend in the vice it is just right for the job.

Battery Bracket

Spent a few spare minutes (hours) fabricating a bracket for the lightweight battery.  The first attempt was very good, but turned out to be too large - I'd allowed a bit too much metal for the bending of the angles.  Effort number two I would rather not talk about.  Third time lucky.  Will fix this to the battery tray later with wing nuts to allow the removal/refitting of the battery.

Polo Radiator Fitted

Some simple brackets made up from 5mm steel strip.  B&Q had exactly the right piece of steel available from which to cut these.  The brackets were given a quick couple of coats of Hammerite.

Lightweight (tinfoil and plastic) Polo radiator fitted and fan mounted.  I decided to go for a 'pull' type fan in the end. This leaves the front of the radiator free for fitting an oil cooler later - no plans at the moment though.

The 12 inch fan fits in very nicely behind the radiator.

The radiator was mounted at angle for two reasons.  The first, as I don't yet have the bodyshell on I don't know how much space I have to work with, so erred on the safe side.  Second, if mounted vertically both the pipe openings clash with other things (steering rack and upper chassis rail).

The fan wiring will be connected once the wiring loom in the engine bay is properly routed and mounted.