Re-cap of IVA Test Preparations

I never got around to it earlier, but I'd always intended to write a post about the modifications that I did for my IVA test.  I'll share them here in case any are useful inspiration for other builders about to take their IVA tests.

Exhaust clamp bolt rotated around towards the sill of the car.

5mm rubber cord super-glued to the scuttle, around the dashboard.  The dashboard had been cut a few mm undersize to accommodate the cord.

3mm rubber cord super-glued around the lens of the reverse and fog lights.

Rubber u-trim attached around the upper harness buckles.

Self-amalgamating tape wrapped around the nuts on the side mirrors.

Exhaust heat wrap fitted around the lambda sensor with stainless steel ties.

U-trim fixed around the silencer bracket with Sikaflex.  Nut covers added to ends of bolts/nuts.

U-trim fitted around the headlight bracket.  Self-amalgamating tape wrapped around the upper ball joint adjuster nut.

Rubber pipe split and wrapped around the track rod, to make it the same diameter as the rod end.  Then self-amalgamating tape wrapped around both.  More nut covers added to the bolt heads and nuts, where not in an exempt area.

Front indicator extensions - made from plumbing tube and copper pipe end caps.

A combination of bicycle inner tube and self-amalgamating tape on the bonnet spring catches.

Loops of bicycle inner tube to secure the plastic covers for the rear bonnet catches.

U-trim on front cycle wings.

Nut coves on suspension nuts/bolts.  U-trim added to all edges of the fibreglass.

Ford Sierra steering wheel fitted.  Before the test I discovered that the inside had delaminated in places from the metal ring.  The padding had also gone a bit powdery.  Both due to old age.  I used a sharp knife to cut a long slit around parts of the wheel rim.  Inside I added some black Sikaflex and wrapped it all up tight with tape.  The repair is almost invisible and the wheel now feels as strong as new.

Steering column (upper and lower)

Two 12mm holes were drilled in the upper steering column mounting brackets. These were drilled towards the top to allow maximum leg room for the driver. The steering column is adjustable so it will be possible to lower it if required.


Sturdy 12mm socket head bolts were used to securely mount the upper steering column. Initially the grey plastic bush at the lower end of the upper steering column was chafing on the chassis mounted cylindrical bracket (tube). To minimise this I used a file to smooth the edge of the tube - removing a hard lip of powder coat and slightly radiusing the edge. Finally a smear of grease was added to the inside of the tube prior to assembly.


The lower steering column simply bolted in three places: to the triangular tube at the bottom of the upper steering column, the steering rack, and in the middle the rose joint bolts to one of the side chassis tubes. This rose joint mounting was left loose as it may need to be removed to install the engine. When it is ready for final assembly a thread lock solution will be used.