Raceline Wet Sump

I have never been entirely happy with my sump installation.  In particular, the fact that there is no baffling, with the consequent risk of oil surge when driving hard.  When building the car I had changed the standard Zetec oil pressure switch for a lower (15psi) version.  This at least should give some advance warning of oil pressure problems, but by the time it illuminates permanent damage to the engine may already have occurred.

In 2012 I did have one trip to Brands Hatch and one to Curborough Sprint Circuit.  While I had no oil pressure issues on these two occasions I started to think that I'd be pushing my luck with the three track sessions that I have booked this Spring.

So I decided to bite the bullet and upgrade to the Raceline wet sump.  This is very highly rated by those that use it.  It is even used on many race cars.  Most racers considering it to be good enough that at upgrade to a full dry sump installation is not even necessary.

The old sump was removed without any major problems.  Then it was time to start preparing the Raceline sump ready for installation.

Here is the main pan.  It is a very nice piece of engineering and you can see where the effort has been spent on the design, the casting and the machining.

Here is the Ford windage tray, Raceline windage tray and oil pick up pipe, etc.

First the oil pick up pipe is installed, with two rubber o-rings to make a seal into the main pan.  A metal filter gauze is inserted into this pipe from the outside of the sump.  This can be removed and cleaned at oil changes, if required.

Next the Raceline windage tray is bolted into place.  This windage tray is one of the methods used to control oil surge.

After that the Ford windage tray is bolted to the Raceline windage tray.  The Ford windage tray is designed to 'scrape' oil of the crank and con-rods.  Helping the oil to fall to the bottom of the sump and not be whipped up into the main engine block.

Standard Zetec Silvertop sump gasket fitted along with oil drain plug and gauze filter plug.  There is a double top hat spacer with rubber o-rings fitted that makes the oil seal between the sump pan and the engine oil pump.

The sump itself fits very well.  The main issue, and one which consumed a lot of time, was getting access to all the sump bolts.  Many are hidden by things like the starter motor, engine mounts, etc.

The old Tiger ERA sump was higher than the gearbox bellhousing.  The Raceline sump is level with the bellhousing.  The previous sump had around 100mm of ground clearance, but unfortutately the Raceline sump only has about 65mm.  This is too little, especially as the car is used a lot on country lanes, where there is often a raised centre to the road.  So the springs on the front dampers were wound up by 20mm.  Due to the geometry of the wishbones this translates to an increase in ride height of about 35mm, i.e. back to around  100mm under the sump.  Result.  I will take a look at the rear ride height as soon as I can and get the car leveled again.

Before running the engine for the first time I removed the plugs and rotated the engine by hand (socket set on crankshaft pulley).  I wanted to make sure that the Ford windage tray was not fouling the crankshaft or con-rods.  Next, I took the spark plugs out and cranked over the engine until the oil pressure light went out.  Once this was done it was time to fire up the engine and go for a test drive.  I'm happy to report that so far all appears to be working fine and there are no leaks.  Roll on the good weather and some track time!

Minor Thermostat Leak Fixed

When fitting the 1.8 diesel thermostat I installed it with the rubber gasket that came with it.  Unfortunately this is slighly thinner than the Zetec petrol thetmostat gasket, and as such I had a small coolant leak from the thermostat housing.

I've taken it all apart again and fitted the original petrol thermostat gasket to the diesel thermostat.  Just been for a test run and no more leak.  Coolant temperature still fixed steady at 88 degrees.  Finally happy.

Throttle Bodies

The throttle bodies are mounted by applying silicone gasket to the inlet manifold and then bolting the manifold to the engine head.  The first attempt went well, then I thought I'd double check behind the butterfly valves only to find some of the gasket had squeezed into the airways - this would not help the engine run its best, so the whole lot had to come off, the silicon clean off, new silicon applied and the assembly remounted.  This also included removing the alternator and refitting.  What a pain.  Fingers crossed it is all okay now.

Tiger ERA Sump

Time to replace the tall original Focus sump with the shorter ERA sump from Tiger.  On the later Black Top Zetec engine both the steel sump pan and the alloy lower crank case need to be removed.  Here is the engine with just the sump pan removed.  Visible is the plastic oil pick-up pipe.  This cannot be shortened so will be replaced by a earlier steel pick-up pipe that has been modified by Tiger (chopped, shortened and welded).

 The lower crank case removed.

Four bolts in two of the main bearing end caps are replaced with Silver Top Zetec bolts that have a threaded stud on the top.  Tubular steel spacers are added to allow the windage tray to be at the right height.

The windage tray, again from an earlier Silver Top Zetec, is bolted on to the four studs using thread-locked M8 nuts.  The modified pick-up pipe is bolted on using a new gasket.  This pipe is attached to one of the studs via a mounting bracket.  Washers were used as spacers to get the right height (8-10mm from bottom of new sump).  This was checked using a ball of Plasticine.

 

On trial fitting the ERA sump fouls with the oil pump housing.  This means the sump bolt holes do not line up.  A curved recess is present on the original lower crank case (seen lower left).

A similar recess was made on the ERA sump using a round file.

Sump mounted using a new gasket and the original bolts tightened to the specified torque.

Once the car is on the road I'll think about adding some baffles to the sump to prevent oil starvation when driven hard, e.g. on the track.

The next problem is one of the engine mountings.  I had previously trimmed this to make if fit around the water pump housing.  Now with the new sump on the engine mount hits the sump edge before being flush with the mounting holes cast in the engine block.  If tightened in this state the engine mounts will 'push' the sump sideways and the large engine loads will be transmitted through the sump - not good.  Next job then is to trim a little of the lower edge of the engine mount.

Gearbox and Bell Housing

Here is the Type-9 gearbox and bell housing as bought secondhand from ebay.

Before separating the the two the clutch release fork was removed.  To do so required that the clutch release bearing be removed.  The bearing was destroyed during the process.  No problem as a new one is provided in the new Pinto clutch kit.  Once the gearbox and bell housing were separated they cleaned with lots of rags and lots of white spirit.

I attempted to remove the reverse stop from the gearbox, but in the end I gave up as it did not seem to want to move and I did not want to damage the gearbox housing.  I tried my Rally Design remote and it functions fine with the original reverse stop still in place in the gearbox.  There is a replacement reverse stop in the gear lever end of the remote.

Bell housing cleaned and degreased, ready for painting with Hammerite.

The oil seals on the input and output shafts were replaced.  The sleeve for the clutch release bearing has to be removed to change the input shaft oil seal.  Upon refitting a new cork gasket is fitted.

Here is the gearbox, repainted, with new oil seals.  The only oil seal that I could not change was the one on the speedo drive shaft.  I removed the side access plate, but when I looked inside you can removed the speedo drive shaft, but it looks like you can't get to the oil seal on the other side without completely dismantling the gearbox.  Something I don't plan on doing!  Fingers crossed this tiny oil seal doesn't let me down once the gearbox is in the car.

A new gasket was fitted between gearbox and bell housing prior to mating the two.  If this is not done the gearbox will empty its oil via the hole that the gear selector rod exits through.

Gearbox and bell housing bolted back together, torqued up as per the Hayne's manual.  The clutch release fork will be reinstalled, along with the new clutch release bearing, at a later stage.

New gearbox mount was trial fitted prior to putting the whole assembly aside, to wait for the engine to be tidied up.