Cycle Wings

After the bonnet the job I was least looking forward to was fitting the cycle wings.  It did indeed turn out to be quite involved.

First off I needed to clear the threads in the front uprights - these were rusty and also had some paint in them.  I hadn't realised when renewing the uprights that these threaded holes would be needed.  A second hand 8mm tap from a local tool shop did the job easily.

Spacer tubes need to be cut to mount the cycle wing vertical arms the correct distance from the tyres.  This is a bit of trial and error and I found it easiest to use washers to calculate the length prior to cutting the tubes.

With the stays mounted in the correct position I could start to fit the cycle wings themselves.  They don't just bolt on unfortunately.  The horizontal arms of the stays need to be bent up into the curvature of the cycle wings.  To work out how far to bend them I tried spacers of different thickness.  A couple of pencil rubbers turned out to be perfect for the job.

Then the stays were bent in the vice, ensuring that the upper part remained parallel with the tyre.  Due to the bending of the stays some of the powder coating flaked off.  Some Hammerite was applied to prevent rusting.

The cycle wings were then trial fitted using an axle stand as a height reference.  The current IVA manual states that the cycle wings must extend at least 50 degrees to the rear and 30 degrees to the front.  The rear was nearly 90 degrees so that was okay.  The front was harder to measure.  In the end the geometry of the wheel came to the rescue.  There are 12 spokes.  360 degrees divided by 12 equals 30 degrees per spoke.  With one spoke vertical I could easily determine that I had about 45 degrees coverage to the front.

A length of bicycle inner tube (700c x 23) was pulled over the horizontal arms to protect the fibreglass from the metal edges.  Holes were drilled in the cycle wings and stays and then dome head bolts used to secure them together.

19mm holes were drilled to accommodate the LED side repeaters.  I had to be careful here as it is quite close to the edge and I didn't want to split the cycle wing.  The repeaters are mounted by inserting the rubber collar into the hole and then pushing the light through, making sure the 'TOP" marking was uppermost.  Due to the curvature of the cycle wing shoulder the rubber did not want to sit fully flat with the (curved) surface.  A little persuasion from Mr Super Glue did the trick.

Finally, the wiring for the side repeaters was extended to reach the inside of the car.  This was cabled tied to the cycle wings stays and under the cycle wings cable tie mounts were attached using Grip Fill.  Before fitting the side repeaters I tested them on the car battery.  They are reassuringly bright.  One oddity is that the black lead is not negative, but positive!  White is negative.

In the end I am quite pleased with result, but the cycle wings are quite a lot of effort from start to finish.

Exhaust Clamp Tested and Rad Fan Switch Changed

Ran the engine again, this time with the silencer clamped to the cat pipe.  No leaks, so that job is done.

The radiator fan switch supplied by Tiger activates at 84oC.  This is a bit low for the Zetec on fuel injection so I always thought that I'd have to change it over to the higher setting.  Anyway, when I looked at the higher setting it was about 147oC so obviously no use!  I bought a replacement switch (Intermotor 50102 - for Peugeot 205/Citroen BX C15).  The lower setting comes on at 93oC and goes off at 88oC.  The higher setting is 97oC/92oC.  I installed it on the radiator and checked it in operation.  It seems to work okay.

As I have no thermostat installed I need the fan to operate at the correct temperature.  While running the engine with the car stationary the Tiger ali radiator seems to be very efficient at cooling.  I'll have to see how it performs when the engine is working harder on the road.  I may have to watch out for over-cooling, especially in the colder months.

Bonnet and Nose Cone Finished

Finally after much drilling, filing and swearing I've finished fitting the bonnet and nose cone.

The nose cone needed some cut-outs making for the lower front wishbone as well as the steering arm.  Bolts were added on each side and one underneath to mount it to the chassis.  I used epoxy to add a washer to the outside of the body around each hole.  This tidied up some rough edges (where the fibreglass started to split due to it being thinner in certain parts) and also spreads the clamping forces more evenly.  The lower bracket had to be extended to reach the lower part of the nose cone.  I think this is due to the fact that the nose cone sits slightly forward of its normal position to accommodate the Tiger alloy radiator, which is already inclined to the maximum.

With the nose cone in place this provided a reference for the bonnet.  This had to be cut quite a bit, very carefully, at the scuttle end.  In its natural position there was the usual huge gap on the drivers side, between the bonnet and the body side panel - maybe 25mm or more at the scuttle end.  I evened this up and now I have a small, but even, tapered gap each side.  The only down side is that the bonnet is trying to rotate back to its natural rest position.  This causes the front of the bonnet to rise up where the inlet bulge is.  This wouldn't be so bad on the version of the bonnet without the bulge because the spring clamps would pull it back down.  However, this is not the case with the asymmetric bonnet that I need to house the throttle bodies and air filters.  Hopefully it will settle after being clamped in position for an extended time.  If not, I might have to look at other solutions.  Possibly a couple of dowels and locating holes between the bonnet front and nose cone rear.  Anyway, I am glad this chore is over.

Tiger has made a good job of reworking the main body tub.  It is a big improvement over the previous version.  It is just a shame the bonnet and nose cone are not yet up to the same standard.

Self tapping screws were sprayed with satin black Rustoleum paint and used to fix the grille to the nose cone.

Exhaust Clamp

Prior to the second engine run I tried renewing the joint between the collector and the silencer with high temperature silicon sealant.  Unfortunately, this did not hold either.  So I bought an exhaust clamp from ebay, which I think is normally fitted to motorbike silencers.  I avoided the normal chunky u-bolt type clamp as this looks a bit clumsy and has more sharp edges to cause radius issues at IVA test time.

To make the join I first cut a 30mm slot on each side of the end of the silencer pipe.  Then aided with some more silicon sealant I clamped the collector and silencer together.  All seems good, but I'll only know when I next run the engine.  Fingers crossed.

Alternator Problem Solved

I didn't have a charge indicator light for the dashboard (digital dash has a voltmeter and a low/high voltage light).  Without this in the circuit the rectifier in the alternator does not send a charge to the battery.

With the light connected the alternator worked perfectly.  It's nice when problems are fixed easily (and cheaply).

Here is another video of the car running.  Apologies for the terrible sound quality from the mobile phone.  It is much, much better in real life.

Engine Start

I finally ran out of excuses not to start the engine.  So with a full tank of fuel and a fire extinguisher ready it was time to turn the key.  Unfortunately the battery died before it properly fired.  There is not enough power in the small race battery for extended cranking, so an hour's top up battery charge was needed.

Attempt number two, and she started straight away!  Here is the video:

I had hoped for a longer recording, capturing me driving very slowly backwards and forwards, but the video camera battery died prematurely too!

You can see smoke coming off the exhaust headers.  This cleared after a minute or so.  The engine was run until the fan cut in, at about 84oC, on the lower setting.  I'll try it again later on the higher setting.

There a couple of issues to sort out:

1.  The alternator (new from Tiger) is not charging.  I'll need to investigate this one.
2.  The high temperature silicon sealant holding the silencer to the collector partly melted and exhaust gases were seen escaping.  Hopefully it is just settling into its rest position and a re-application should keep a good seal.

Overall though I am really pleased.  Now I can get on with finishing the bonnet fitment (joyless task) and then concentrate on fitting the interior trim and seats.

Dashboard

I am using the black GRP dashboard provided by Tiger.  Some people have fixed this on with screws, others with adhesive.  I wanted the clean looks (without screws), but without the permanence of adhesive.  I decided in the end to use regular clear silicon sealant.  My thinking is that it will hold the dashboard firmly, but can be removed later, if needed.  Perhaps by using a very thin long blade.  That technique may damage the dashboard, who knows.  Hopefully I won't need to find out.

I am mounting the digital dash (nearly) flush into the dashboard itself.  A template was cut for the hole required in the dashboard.

Hole cut in dashboard prior to sticking the dashboard to the body shell.

 Same size hole made in the body shell behind the dashboard.

A bracket to hold the digital dash at the right 'depth' was fabricated out of aluminium strip.  This was glued to the back of the dashboard using two healthy blobs of epoxy resin.  Seem to have held very well.

The dashboard had to be filed a bit to get the correct profile to match the scuttle.  I then took a few more millimetres off all round.  This allows a little space around the edge that I will glue some rubber trim on to for IVA.  I've tested a short length, made from the round part of P-trim, and it looks quite smart.

A second bracket was made to brace the lower part of the dashboard - to stop it flapping around.  Once the digital dashboard was mounted the switches were installed for the headlights, etc. Powered up and everything still worked!