Alternator Problem Solved

I didn't have a charge indicator light for the dashboard (digital dash has a voltmeter and a low/high voltage light).  Without this in the circuit the rectifier in the alternator does not send a charge to the battery.

With the light connected the alternator worked perfectly.  It's nice when problems are fixed easily (and cheaply).

Here is another video of the car running.  Apologies for the terrible sound quality from the mobile phone.  It is much, much better in real life.

Engine Start

I finally ran out of excuses not to start the engine.  So with a full tank of fuel and a fire extinguisher ready it was time to turn the key.  Unfortunately the battery died before it properly fired.  There is not enough power in the small race battery for extended cranking, so an hour's top up battery charge was needed.

Attempt number two, and she started straight away!  Here is the video:

I had hoped for a longer recording, capturing me driving very slowly backwards and forwards, but the video camera battery died prematurely too!

You can see smoke coming off the exhaust headers.  This cleared after a minute or so.  The engine was run until the fan cut in, at about 84oC, on the lower setting.  I'll try it again later on the higher setting.

There a couple of issues to sort out:

1.  The alternator (new from Tiger) is not charging.  I'll need to investigate this one.
2.  The high temperature silicon sealant holding the silencer to the collector partly melted and exhaust gases were seen escaping.  Hopefully it is just settling into its rest position and a re-application should keep a good seal.

Overall though I am really pleased.  Now I can get on with finishing the bonnet fitment (joyless task) and then concentrate on fitting the interior trim and seats.

Dashboard

I am using the black GRP dashboard provided by Tiger.  Some people have fixed this on with screws, others with adhesive.  I wanted the clean looks (without screws), but without the permanence of adhesive.  I decided in the end to use regular clear silicon sealant.  My thinking is that it will hold the dashboard firmly, but can be removed later, if needed.  Perhaps by using a very thin long blade.  That technique may damage the dashboard, who knows.  Hopefully I won't need to find out.

I am mounting the digital dash (nearly) flush into the dashboard itself.  A template was cut for the hole required in the dashboard.

Hole cut in dashboard prior to sticking the dashboard to the body shell.

 Same size hole made in the body shell behind the dashboard.

A bracket to hold the digital dash at the right 'depth' was fabricated out of aluminium strip.  This was glued to the back of the dashboard using two healthy blobs of epoxy resin.  Seem to have held very well.

The dashboard had to be filed a bit to get the correct profile to match the scuttle.  I then took a few more millimetres off all round.  This allows a little space around the edge that I will glue some rubber trim on to for IVA.  I've tested a short length, made from the round part of P-trim, and it looks quite smart.

A second bracket was made to brace the lower part of the dashboard - to stop it flapping around.  Once the digital dashboard was mounted the switches were installed for the headlights, etc. Powered up and everything still worked!

Lamda Sensor

Simple job to fit the lamda sensor in the exhaust collector.  More difficult to complete the wiring.  The plug needed to be cut off as it is too big to go through a reasonable size hole in the body work.  Also the wire is way too long.  Only problem with re-soldering the lead is that the wires seem to be coated in something that prevents solder from taking.  I used a needle file to rub the coating off and expose the copper strands within.  Then it was a simple job to solder and make good with heat shrink sleeving.

Raising the Height of the Engine

Tried to fit the air filters on to the throttle bodies.  The rear filter fits, but the front filter fouls on the upper chassis rail.

A 5mm space plate was inserted between the engine mount rubber and the chassis.  There is now 2 or 3mm clearance.  Should be enough as the engine shouldn't rock much with the firmer rubbers.

Exhaust Fitted

Bracket made up to mount the silencer, painted with Hammerite and bolted through one of the steel chassis plates.

To fit the exhaust I used a high temperature silicon sealant (PRO SEAL RTV Silicone Instant Gasket RED 85g Hi-Temp) - it is flexible so won't crumble like exhaust paste and clog the catalyst.  Also it is supposed to be safe for use on lamda sensors.

Next to do is installation of the lamda sensor.