Throttle Pedal

The throttle linkage assembly is mounted underneath the throttle bodies. This is much easier to attach before mounting the bodies on the engine.   Lucky then that I read ahead in the installation manual to the next chapter to where that is mentioned

The throttle cables are attached to the throttle pedal using the fitting kit provided. Before this could be done the angle grinder and cutting disc had to be used to remove the flat plate that was welded to the top of the throttle pedal.  I assume this is used for a standard installation.  With the Webcon throttle bodies this is not needed, only the round shaft is needed.

The cables had to be shortened significantly.  I tried to solder the ends to prevent fraying of the cut inner cables, but the solder would not take.  Probably some kind of coating on the inner cables. In the end I used some epoxy resin.  As Tiger warned me the throttle pedal is too stiff with both return springs fitted so I have removed one.

Exhaust Trial Fitting

I decided it would a good time to trial fit the exhaust down pipes and 4-to-1 collector.  This would allow me to make sure that none of my wiring would be near to the hot pipes.  Having heard some horror stories about badly aligned down pipes that don't fit the collector I was a bit apprehensive.  In the end it only took five minutes to trial fit the lot and the fit is perfect.  Top marks Tiger.  Maybe my grief will be later on further down towards the silencer...

Throttle Bodies

The throttle bodies are mounted by applying silicone gasket to the inlet manifold and then bolting the manifold to the engine head.  The first attempt went well, then I thought I'd double check behind the butterfly valves only to find some of the gasket had squeezed into the airways - this would not help the engine run its best, so the whole lot had to come off, the silicon clean off, new silicon applied and the assembly remounted.  This also included removing the alternator and refitting.  What a pain.  Fingers crossed it is all okay now.

Alternator

Mounting the alternator with the Tiger provided brackets requires removal of one of the upper cambelt cover bolt mountings.  The plastic part must be sawed off the upper cambelt cover and the matching piece of metal cut off the back plate.

 Here is the upper bracket in the space where the upper cam cover bolt would have been.

The upper alternator mounting bracket can only be mounted by bolting through the inlet manifold flange, i.e. the alternator bracket bolts partly hold the manifold on to the engine head.

The finished article with the drive belt in place and tensioned.  The engine was turned over by hand a couple of times to check the drive belt was running freely and straight, i.e. on the right grooves of each pulley.

Wiring Check Out

Now that the wiring is complete (standard Tiger loom, not Webcon Alpha loom) I decided to give it a little test.  It is much easier to fix errors now, before the body is on.  There were just a few gremlins to fix, like the relays in the wrong sockets and the low and high beam wires mixed up on the steering column switch.  Once corrected everything seems to be working correctly.

Here are the rear lights all switched on.  The camera on the phone has not coped too well though.

Once satisfied that the loom was all correctly wired in it was time to try the digital dash again.  Here all the 'tell tales' are illuminated.  Not something that you'd want to see while driving along!

There is just the reverse switch to wire into the digital dash.  The dash supports a reverse gear logo ('R') as well as 'calculated' gears.  To light the 'R' on the display requires a connection to ground.  However, the output of the reverse light switch on the gearbox is +12v, so I need to use a relay.

Once this reverse gear indicator is working I'll tidy up the Tiger loom and move on to the Webcon Alpha loom.

Thermostat Modification

As I have blocked off the two coolant bypass pipes I needed to remove the thermostat.  The thermostat housing is taken apart via just three screws and then the thermostat assembly can be removed.  With the angle grinder two cuts were made to remove the mechanism and just leave the outer ring.

A new rubber seal was used when replacing the modified thermostat in the housing.  The orientation was kept the same, with the air bleed valve at the top.  Not that it serves any purpose now.

Webcon Alpha Pro 4 Gold Throttle Bodies Kit

I've opened up the box and the kit is very comprehensive.  There's even a fuel filter and mounting hardware.  I will use this to replace the existing budget filter and home made bracket.  Should have read the kit contents before try to complete the fuel lines!

I was a little disheartened to find a large wiring loom.  I thought my wiring chores were over.  To be fair it is probably fairly straight forward and everything is labelled.  That makes a change.

Yesterday I made a call to Webcon to discuss connecting the ECU tacho output to the digital dashboard - didn't want to fry anything.  They were very helpful and happy to answer my technical questions in great detail, explaining how the ECU is built and operates.  I hopefully won't need their help, but it is very reassuring to know there is somebody there who can help.  Main piece of advice for installation was: don't touch any of the factory set screws that are thread locked.  Point noted.

Radiator Change

While at the Tiger at the weekend I discussed my plans for engine cooling.  Weighing up the pros and cons of the Polo radiator I had a change of mind and a further lightening of the wallet.  My car (is it a car yet?) is now adorned with a shiny alloy radiator.

This new radiator choice has also simplified the plumbing.  Now I'll just be using the two 32mm hose connections on the thermostat housing to the radiator and the 15mm connection on the bottom of the rad to the expansion tank.  Both heater outlets on the thermostat housing will be blanked and the centre of the thermostat removed.  It will take slightly longer to warm up, but as the car will not be used on very cold days it should not be a problem.

I've kept my 'puller' fan, but it means the rad has to sit a little high.  I will only know when I get the nose cone on.  There is probably a bit of room to move the rad lower with some slight tweaking of the mounting brackets.

Clutch Cable

With the Tiger floor mounted pedals the brake pipes are routed along the lower chassis rail.  Unfortunately this is where the clutch cable would normally be tethered.  There is pretty much only one routing where the clutch cable does not foul the brake pipes - that is in a vertical curve.

I fabricated two brackets and used rubber lined p-clips to hold the clutch cable in this configuration.  The clutch action seems nice and smooth and the cable stays clear of the brake pipes, oil filter and lower steering column.

This large bracket came in a multi-pack from Screwfix.  It is normally used to hold kitchen cupboards together.  After adding a 90 degree bend in the vice it is just right for the job.